BAR REVIEW: Jethro's Cocktail Lounge

PERIODIC REMINDER: Make sure you're getting the full functionality of the site! If you aren't a subscriber, you can enter your email in the purple box at the top of any page to get email updates whenever there's a new post. There are also reference pages for my Houston Restaurant Guide, Houston Drinking Guide, Beyond Houston, and an alphabetical index of all reviews.

My second visit to this "Midtrose" cocktail bar which has been hanging around the fringes of my top 20 rankings came on an early Friday evening, where I was surprised to find it absolutely slammed (though the patio was empty, probably because no one wanted to sit outside in high-90's summer heat, which has been a theme lately). Jethro's sits across from the former location of the great but short-lived pizza spot Elro Pizza + Crudo (it was a sad day when I had to remove that one from my restaurant guide) on that beguiling triangle intersection where Fairview becomes Tuam. The vibe here is pretty casual, kind of reminiscent of a Johnny's Gold Brick for this part of town. While it was quite busy, the friendly bartenders handled the rush with great aplomb, and you never had to wait too long for a drink.

There are around 10 specialty cocktails on the menu, and I had to start with the "Piscofragolistic", their take on a pisco sour with the eponymous Peruvian spirit (a high-proof fermented alcohol from grapes), strawberry, basil, yuzu, and egg-white foam. Served in a Nick and Nora glass and garnished with a mint leaf, this had a beautiful pink-red color (see photo below). There was sweetness from the strawberry, acidity from the yuzu, and a hint of pepperiness from the basil. Effortlessly smooth, this was a perfect August drink.

Kicking things up a notch (ok Emeril) was the "Not Your Dad's Old Fashioned", which certainly was anything but. A hibiscus-infused rye is stirred with fernet, luxardo, and so we don't stray too far from the mold, angostura bitters. It was much more bitter and less sweet than your typical old fashioned thanks to the amaro, but also had some floral fruitiness from the hibiscus and cherry liqueur. I generally prefer a bit more sweetness if you're branding it as an O.F., but this was a fun change of pace.

I also tasted the "Matcha-Ma-Call-It", comprised of vodka, matcha (duh), mint simple syrup, lime, and St-Germain, the delightful elderflower spirit. As I've mentioned other places, I'm not a huge matcha guy, but it wasn't particularly powerful here. Most impressive about this drink, though, was the presentation: in a balloon wine glass was the opaque vivid green liquid, with a pink watermelon ice cube in the center topped with a beautiful purple orchid blossom. A work of intoxicating art.

There are also a few classic cocktails and zero-proof options, one or two frozens, and some token beer and wine selections. They keep things pretty tight here, but the drinks are overall compelling and very well-made. This is a nice option before or after dinner at one of the many great restaurants in the area (Soto, Cuchara, El Tiempo, and ChòpnBlọk are all very close by). Especially once the weather gets better (aka after Thanksgiving), the patio would be a nice place to spend the evening.

PSA: I didn't get a chance to try the food, but word on the street is that they have an exceptional smashburger here. And before 7 PM the burger with fries is only $7, which is a pretty smashing (get it?) deal.

RANKING UPDATE: Holding fast at #18 on my Best Cocktail Bars in Houston list.

NEXT UP: Amrina is one of the best Indian restaurants in the area, but the Woodlands is soooo far away... so thankfully those lovely folks decided to open up another concept in town