MEXICO CITY BAR ROUNDUP: Hanky Panky, FO+MA, Bar Mauro, Tlecān
On the Mount Rushmore of mixology, Mexico City is a stone-cold (geology pun) lock alongside New York and London, with the other spot probably going to Hong Kong or Singapore, though I would hear arguments for Tokyo, Paris, Buenos Aires, Barcelona, or Toronto. During my first trip to the ciudad last summer I figuratively moved heaven and earth (by which I mean I pestered my friends about it enough until they were able to secure a reservation, since I had sadly failed on the initial release) to visit Handshake Speakeasy, which at the time was the #1 ranked bar in the world and in North America, and, reader, let me tell you, it lived up to the hype. But there are soooo many more top-tier bars throughout Cuauhtémoc, and as a high-functioning alcoholic... fan of the drink... beverage connoisseur I felt the need to check out as many as was practical, so let's do a BA-style roundup! (Note: in case I ever decide to run for public office, the previous sentence was a joke.) I am rather beholden to lists, so accompanying the name of each establishment is its position on the 2026 edition of North America's 50 Best Bars rankings.
Hanky Panky (somehow not ranked in 2026):
I'm presenting these chronologically, so we're anticlimactically starting with my favorite of the bunch, which was shockingly left off the most recent compendium but had previously climbed as high as #12 on the world list in 2021. Hanky Panky is a true speakeasy (CDMX's first) – with its entrance hidden behind a fake taco shop and the exit through a low-clearance beer refrigerator – that is honestly a bit tricky to find, as the location is meant to be kept secret. The actual space is sleek and sexy: a long marble bar with tall leather seats on one side, dimly-lit booths on the other, and mirrors all around to watch the staff at work.
Their current concept features cocktails inspired by different countries around the globe, which was like catnip to me. The Grand Bazaar had Macurichos mezcal infused with raisins and black cumin, Pedro Ximénez sherry, Talisker whiskey, and Angostura bitters. Evoking memories of strolling around the massive market in Istanbul, this flowed with warm flavors and spices, like being wrapped in a Turkish carpet. A plum garnish was meant to be nibbled on before sips, which activated some sweet taste buds as well.
Speaking of my favorite cities, Garden State evoked the lush streets of Singapore via Martin Miller's gin, green tea, Hattori sake, coconut cream, orange bitters, and terebinth essence. Poured a vibrant green color, this also featured a delicate lattice crisp adding a textural component, while enhancing the earthy creaminess of the drink. I'm fairly certain I've never seen "terebinth essence" ever used in any sort of culinary or libational form, and quite frankly I'm not even sure what it is, but it must have contributed something, because this was absolutely lovely.
A second section of the menu showcased cocktails "from our friends abroad", and I had to try the one from Charly Aguinsky of Tres Monos, one of my top five bars in the world. Milkicillin was a lactified play on the classic penicillin, con Chivas Regal 12 whisky, ginger, honey, loose leaf green tea, whole milk, spices, and lime. Quite boozy, this had the bite of ginger, the acidity of lime, and was clarified for a smooth finish. I felt like I was transported from Juárez back to Palermo (fans of Latin American neighborhoods know what I'm talking about).
Apologies if this didn't quite have my usual flowing prose and vivid descriptions, as I hadn't initially planned on writing about it so I didn't have my critic's hat on at the time, but it was such an unexpected delight that I couldn't deprive my devoted followers of the details. A tremendous combination of atmosphere and craft, this earned such high marks from me that it would be my favorite spot in Mexico City if it wasn't for the GOAT (Handshake).
FO+MA (#13 in 2026):
I had high hopes for FO+MA (short for Form + Matter) due to a recommendation from the proprietor of Houston's best bar, but came away a bit disappointed. Vibes-wise this reminded me almost of a sports bar, with a larger, airy space awash in concrete. Maybe it's because we were sat at the very front on a small balcony and didn't get to observe the mad scientists at work, but I didn't get the same molecular mixology excitement that I did at Xolo, Handshake, Carnaval, and others.
The most successful drink we tried was the Spicy Mango-Loma, with Lost Explorer tequila, yuzu, grapefruit, mango, cardamom, habanero, and CO2. Carbonation is hot in the streets these days, and it worked to great effect here, giving this an effervescent quality that elevated the fruity acidic flavors. I'm normally not the biggest paloma guy due to the inherent bitterness of the grapefruit, but the addition of heat from the chile balanced it out here, resulting in a very drinkable creation. Certainly not losing any points for this one.
However, the same cannot be said for the Kim-Let, featuring Stoli Elit vodka, sake, kimchi, cucumber, black garlic, and chili oil. Yes, you read that correctly. I've got no problem with savory cocktails (the Thai Curry at Double Chicken Please was an all-timer), and I certainly enjoy unusual drinks (if I'm ever at somewhere like Civil Liberties in Toronto or The Cloakroom in Montreal where they don't have a menu and the bartender just asks you what you like and freestyles from that, I'm always requesting something "weird"), but this one was taken a step too far. A companion observed that this tasted like "drinking salad dressing", and I honestly can't think of a better descriptor. Tangy and spicy, but with an overpowering lingering umami note that was borderline unpleasant. I nearly did not finish this one, but to paraphrase a (probably problematic, now that I think about it) saying, there are sober children in Africa, so I manned up and daniwah-ed the rest of the liquid Hidden Valley. Plus I didn't want to let $280 go to waste. Pesos that is, don't worry. It's infuriatingly confusing that they use the same currency symbol as US dollars. Maybe something for Claudia Sheinbaum to think about.
While I'm submitting that last paragraph to the Pulitzer Prize Board, I will say that some of the other drinks of my tablemates fell between those two extremes, and I think you can definitely have a nice time here, but it's not going to top my recommendation list, that's for sure. I doubt I'll ever get a chance to give this another shot, but with some less cavalier ordering and a seat closer to the action I think I would enjoy it more. Oh well.
Bar Mauro (#2 in 2026):
A meteoric riser in the CDMX cocktail scene, Bar Mauro opened in late 2024 and has been getting rave reviews ever since... I would be mildly surprised if we don't see it crack the top 10 on the World's 50 Best Bars list later this year. Fortunately we showed up shortly after opening on a Saturday afternoon so we did not have to wait, but I have a feeling it might be pretty difficult to snag a table here most of the time. Themed after 1970's Milan, this aperitivo bar was classy yet inviting, reminiscent of a cozy Italian hotel.
Strongly recommended was the Maurito, a carbonated concoction of Ilegal Joven mezcal, Lillet Blanc, Jerez Fino Tío Pepe sherry, and guava. Served in a highball glass with one of those pleasing rectangular ice prisms, this was an incredibly well-balanced mix, with a touch of smoke, some sweetness from the guayaba, and aromatics from the fortified wines. I can definitely see why it's their best seller.
Similarly excellent was the Gold Digger, a stronger libation of Suntory Toki, Aperol, Amaro Montenegro, fig, raspberry, and white Crème de Cacao. Shockingly easy-drinking for such a boozy blend, this was a testament to the skill and vision of the creators, as the subtle chocolate and fruit flavors mellowed out the amaros and the Japanese whisky. And the best part was the little wedge of soft cheese that garnished the top of the ice cube. So fun!
We try to include something for everyone here at Adrian Reviews, so let's do something sin alcohol. Showcasing agua de plátano, jasmine, citrus fruits, pandan, and soda, Singapore Is A City Or A State? is not only an excellent question to a fan of geographical minutiae such as myself (and the second reference to that nation in this review!), but also an extremely refreshing treat for a late spring day. Banana, vanilla, and floral waves flooded the palate, and bubbles fizzed against the tongue for a comforting mouthfeel. See? Mocktails are people too.
We did not order any food, as this was immediately following a substantial lunch at Pujol, but the adjacent table ordered some charcuterie and a mean-looking mortadella focaccia.
Is this really the second best bar in North America? Probably not (then again, Sip & Guzzle doesn't deserve the #1 ranking either)... but the quality was very high, and I don't have a single negative thing to say. It's more a testament to the sheer number of tremendous spots in Mexico City that I have it outside my top three (spoiler alert for the end of this review). Quite different than anywhere I've been here, it's worth a look for sure, especially if you're into Italian stuff.
Tlecān (#5 in 2026):
The bar I was most excited to check out, Tlecān is a mezcal mecca, perhaps the premier temple of that spirit anywhere in the world. Interestingly, you won't find 400 Conejos or Ilegal here, as they only source artisanal agaves from small producers across Mexico, specifically focused on female distillers. It is quite small, very dark and moody with reddish lighting (Tlecān means 'place of fire' in Náhuatl) and a large Disk of Mictlāntēcutli (aka Disk of Death) sculpture that looms over one end of the room. Masterful mixologists flaunt their technique, doing that thing where they mix by pouring from one shaker at a great height into another near ground level, which needless to say I absolutely ate up. After waiting half an hour in line (which I usually refuse to do), first in the rain, then in the boiling entry hall, it was standing room only, so please forgive the less-than-stellar photo below. Also, shoutout to the solo traveler from New York that was placed next to us, mad respect for braving the queue to experience this place by yourself.
Despite having plenty of time to peruse the menu, I did a minor panic order and got the Pulque Colada, with the eponymous fermented agave wine, pineapple milk punch, coconut water, and mezcal fat-washed in coconut oil. I first encountered the beguiling milky, frothy pulque at Xochimilco last year, and while the fruit-flavored varieties are actually quite tasty, the yeasty and sour standard version isn't particularly pleasant on its own. Here, though, it added a bit of funk to this reinterpretation of a piña colada, and I wouldn't be backing up my passion for odd beverages if I didn't give this one my support.
The undisputed star, however, was the Margarita Kauil, a deceptively simple invention with manzano chiles, apricot, and mezcal. Plenty of smoke with heat and sweetness, I couldn't have balanced this one better myself if I tried (obviously, because I would have no idea what I was doing). Seriously though, this was REALLY good, probably the single best cocktail of the entire trip. Giving this one the patented AR "must order" stamp of approval. I want another.
There's also the Oceloyotl, containing anise-infused mezcal, cinnamon, clove, corn liqueur, Veracruz cold brew coffee fermented with cherry, piloncillo syrup, and chocolate bitters. Without a doubt the strongest and most complex carajillo I've ever tried, this softened up a bit with additional sips and there were lots of interesting flavors to try to parse out, but was not for the faint of heart.
With all drinks ranging from good to amazing, I really dug this spot, and if it had been a little less crowded (read: if we had been able to sit down), we could have dug into the menu a bit more and this could potentially have rivaled Hanky Panky and Handshake for my favorite bars in the city. It's still an absolutely essential stop for mezcal aficionados, and while I would never tell someone that they have to wait in line, it might be worth it here.
Four bars, four different vibes. I was able to knock out a big chunk of my wishlist on this weekend, and it was (mostly) excellent. "Death closes all: but something ere the end... some work of noble note may yet be done, not unbecoming men that strove with Gods." (Poetry). I think that Tennyson was probably inspired by me and my unfinished Mexico City cocktail quest when he wrote those words, as I still need to visit Rayo, Baltra Bar, Bijou Drinkery Room, and Kaito del Valle on my next sojourn south of the border. See you next year?
RANKING UPDATE: CDMX is big enough to support more than one entry on my Beyond Houston page, so I'm supplementing Handshake with Hanky Panky. Honestly I could probably even add a third, but that would be unprecedented, and I am nothing if not a steward of tradition. Since I've now been to enough to compile a list, I couldn't help myself...
Mexico City Cocktail Bar Rankings:
- Handshake Speakeasy
- Hanky Panky
- Tlecān
- Bar Mauro
- Brujas
- Licorería Limantour
- Cafe de Nadie
- FO+MA
NEXT UP: Back home for another Italian-inspired bar in Rice Village