RESTAURANT REVIEW: Bar Bludorn

Blessed as we are to have so many amazing restaurants in Houston, with more opening seemingly every day, it can be difficult at times to return to one's favorites, as the list of new places to try grows ever longer (especially if you run a fledgling food review blog). However, this "upscale tavern" both happens to be in my (formerly restaurant desert-y but rapidly improving) neighborhood, and serve quite possibly my favorite dish in the entire city, so this wasn't my first (or second... or third...) visit. This time I brought my parents along for a birthday celebration, so that meant there were even more dishes to taste.

Dark wood abounds, and the dim lighting and low ceilings give it a distinct pub-like feel. The bar area is to your right as you enter, where you can enjoy a laid-back dinner with bartender Adrian (!) mixing both house and classic cocktails. Standouts include the Moneypenny – a boozy combination of apple brandy, rum, and spices – and the zero-proof High Treason, which includes thai tea, guava, lime, and cinnamon.

The main dining room leads to an open kitchen, and we were seated towards the back with a great view of the chefs preparing a myriad of delicious plates. You should always start with the Country Ham Beignets, where the pillowy deep-fried pastries we know and love from Cafe Du Monde are reinterpreted in a more savory context, filled with ever-so-smooth whipped ricotta and topped with a slice of prosciutto. A very sharable appetizer that kicks off your meal with a bang.

Another starter that shines is the Steak Tartare, pungent with horseradish and garlic, topped with the classic egg yolk and served with quarter-sized potato rosti (almost like tater tots) as the textural contrast. My dad was kind enough to share a few bites, but he looked just about ready to stick his fork through my hand when I scraped the last few morsels from the bottom of the plate. I once described beef tartare as my third favorite food (pretentious, I know, but #1 is pizza so I truly contain multitudes), so I have tried a great number of interpretations... and this one ranks towards the top.

As for that previously teased favorite dish in the city: the Duck Gumbo here is absolutely out of this world. An incredibly enticing rich roux bathes chunks of duck breast, crispy bits of duck skin, tender okra, and a tumulus of Carolina Gold rice. I will eat this dish every single time I come to Bar Bludorn, and honestly would visit solely for the purpose of ordering a bowl.

There are a few pastas that seem to change seasonally, and a newer entry was Cavatelli with blue crab. The gnocchi-like shells were cooked to the perfect level of firmness and lightly coated in a delicious fresno chile sauce. A generous portion of sweet crab on top was finished with preserved lemon for that hit of acidity to tie the dish together. Previous pasta iterations have also hit, so check back often to see what noodles and ingredients the chef comes up with next (currently on the menu are spaghetti carbonara and artichoke ravioli).

Another new-ish item is the entree of Dayboat Scallops, the "baller" version of the mollusks that have been harvested by boats that are on the water for less than 24 hours, meaning they are extra fresh and tender. The preparation here was quite interesting, with a sort of succotash of corn, piquillo peppers, and chorizo, as well as some fingerling potato pieces. That 50% of our party ordered this as their main course was a testament to its greatness.

Also tremendous is the Steak Frites, which... I know, you can get anywhere, but this one absolutely slaps, as the kids say. An 8 ounce portion of hangar steak (a cut similar to skirt or flank steak) is seared and finished to a perfect medium rare, and topped with an aromatic sauce au poivre made from green peppercorns and cognac. That extraordinary sauce is perfect for dipping the frites portion of the dish, which might be the secret weapon of the restaurant. Hand cut and expertly fried, the crisp exterior gives way to a fluffy interior that necessitates finishing the entire cone in which they are served. There's also a menu section of a la carte steaks for those who prefer fancier cuts of beef.

One thing I probably won't order again is the Shortrib Reuben. Technically a starter, I had this as my main course, but maybe it is better to be shared because it ate VERY heavy. The meat was nice but in combination with sauerkraut, gruyere cheese, and Russian dressing on marbled rye bread... four sandwich quarters were just too much for one (very large) man.

Finally, you must order the Foie Gras Candy Bar for dessert. This Snickers-esque treat consists of a dark chocolate shell encasing layers of marshmallow, candied peanuts, and a foie gras caramel that has such an incredible depth of flavor that it is unlike any confection I've ever tasted. It even comes in an adorable green box emblazoned with the Bar Bludorn logo, in case you need to take it home with you (which, if you order as much as we did, you might!).

I know not everyone wants to make the trek out to West Houston, but trust me, this isn't just a neighborhood restaurant... it's destination-worthy.

NEXT UP: back to Mexico City already??? Not exactly, but somewhere even more trendy